Where did Stalin go?

The other night I was watching Georgian TV, and there appeared to be a show about Stalin statue in Gori - it was removed from central square only last June, in the most curious and secret way, and until now it is still missing. There were several points in this story that I keep wondering about: why did his statue stay in the center of the town for so long? Now, I could write pages of what I think about his cruelty and cynicism, yet it seems Gori people don't feel very touched by such ideas. You see, Joseph was born in Gori, and for this small town it is something that makes it known. Most people don't know that he never returned to Gori after becoming a 'big man' in Moscow. But in Stalin's museum (which charges a crazy price for the entrance!) you will be told all about his life in his young days, with his childhood house and a lots of busts and medals, and literature, and presents that he received (the last one dated 1999, from China. Says a lot, doesn't it)....... all devoted to show how great leader he was.

A painting from Stalin's museum

So that is the second mystery for me - the museum, which does not mention anything negative about Stalin and completely ignores the atrocities that he ordered in his USSR times. It gives very strange view of the history - though at the same time it is interesting to watch, how people actually believe in this version. I wanted so so much to ask something provoking to the ladies working at the museum, but my Georgian was not that good then. Maybe next time:) because there was even an idea to make a museum of a museum. I.e., to leave it all as it is and to show the tourists - that's how we portrayed Stalin in the communist times. Would be interesting!

Another mystery however, was how Stalin's statue disappeared from the main square of Gori. Local people were not so enthusiastic to let go the statue; so the authorities came in the middle of the night, surrounded the square with police and silently took the statue. Nobody knew, nobody saw - just in the morning surprised Gori people saw that the square was empty. Now this I don't understand also - why to make it so secretly? Not to meet any protesters, they said - but so what if people protest? It's their right, and at least they could do what graffiti on the walls saying "We want Stalin back" (or smth like that).

 But the biggest question of all is - where did the statue go? More than a year passed: it is not in the museum, it is not in the city center and nobody talks about it anymore. One mocking journalist (forgot his name....) tried to burst into cabinets of municipality with this question - but nobody could answer him. And though his questioning style looked quite intrusive (though of course, I couldn't understand it all), I agree on one point - there is no meaning to hide such things from people. If you are right, you will act openly. And if you have to hide it only rises new questions... 

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Ok, after writing this one I heard some doubts, that maybe it actually IS in the museum. Will have to go check some time. Crazy story, in any case :)

The magic button — Make Everything OK

The magic button — Make Everything OK

Amazingly soothing effect. I guess sometimes you just need to take it all to your hands, press the button - and move on!

The world is melting

I think my ice-cream feels the same way.

Sometimes I believe in the melting of icebergs, I can just picture it. When it is +35 outside with no big prospects of cooling down and all you can do is sit in the coolest room of your house or go look for the conditioner in some cafe - trying to walk on the shadowy side; and all you can eat is ice cream and fruits - luckily, there are just so many of them at this time of the year, and even more luckily I am in the country where you can have peach for dinner every day.

How do they survive this heat, these Georgians? I think the answer is that it all comes with experience - they just don't know what it's like to have a cool rainy summer. When you don't have with what to compare, you don't want to escape there.

Yet Georgians have their own methods of cooling down. In case you get in a heat-related troublesome situation, I'll share some of it:

• If you have a car and see any mountains nearby, just get in and go there immediately. Cool breeze up there is the greatest thing of all + beautiful views come as a bonus (just don't forget the sunscreen!);
• If you are a man and have a big belly, pull your T-shirt up on top of it. Works for women too, but for men it's just so much more impressive (I couldn't find a proper picture, but just use your imagination:));
• If you are a woman, use a fan - you know, the one from paper or other materials, like this. It will not only help to make some wind, but could become an exclusive accessory. For men this will not work - if you want to look seriously in the eyes of others, you won't engage in this 'women's stuff'. Almost the same applies to carrying an umbrella;
• Go rafting. It was one of the most enjoyable days, with a little bit of extreme medium amount of rowing and a lot of water, shouting and emotions. Oh yes, and sun is biting crazily there - sunscreen again! (that one is more a reminder to myself...unfortunately:);
• If nothing works, use positive thinking. After all, melting is not always so bad!

Tribute to the sights of Georgia. Churches.

They say in Georgia there is very beautiful nature, good wine, hospitable people... but when you come here, you will definitely be told about its ancient history (which is quite impressive when you compare what they were doing here, when Baltic tribes were just cutting forests to make some space in the North!:) One thing you will surely hear is that Georgia has been the stronghold of Christianity for centuries. No wonder it is so important here: surrounded by Persian and Ottoman empires Georgians had to fight for survival - and thus Christianity became one of the core features of Georgian identity.

I was surprised to see people on the bus and in the street making a sign of cross when they pass the church. And I was really shocked when I saw a group of teenagers coming from a football game to quit their conversation, line up in front of a monastery, make sign of cross and continue their way. Would you see that in Lithuania? Or in Western Europe?

But this entry is not about religiosity. It is about religious sights - beautiful ancient (and newly built) churches, of a distinguished style, buried saints inside them, some of them - with monasteries, with peace and quite around. If you are a tourist in Georgia, you just simply won't have a chance to miss it, as it is the first sight where all tourist info booklets and offices and local advisers will lead you. Bellow - sharing some impressions of mine.

A church in the mountains of Kartli (?), not far from Gori. I should ask to remind more information about it, but this sight stuck in my memory, like a separate world, where nothing bad happens.

There is a Bethlehem quarter in old Tbilisi, where you can make the whole circle up and down the hill, passing little private yards, curving streets, stairs and several churches. This is one of them - with pretty nice view from it.

Metekhi church. One of the highlights of Tbilisi. Here it is already lit for the night, and is well visible from another side of the river Mtkvari (yes yes, 4 syllables!..) There is kind David the Builder standing in front of it, reminding of the legend how Tbilisi was built.

This is the old Jvari up on the hill (hah, would be a mountain for any proper Lithuanian!), near Mtskheta, old capital of Georgia. To this shrine many people come not only for praying, but also for enjoying the views of the valleys around.

These are the views I just mentioned. Pretty enjoyable, huh?! Down there you can see Mtskheta, the old capital town, with one of the oldest and the biggest churches - Svetitskhoveli. Despite the unpronouncable name, it is really beautiful.

St. Nino's monastery, near Sighnaghi, in the Eastern Georgia Kakheti region. So far this is my favorite monastery, as there is such a peaceful atmosphere in there, you can feel it in the air. There is also a holy spring here.

Ananuri church. I am not sure if it works now, although it is open sometimes. It is on the way from Tbilisi to mountain resorts, and all the time passing it I'm thinking that there is something not done here, not finished. This amazing fortress and church is a picturesque place could be such an attraction for people - but there is not much else developed around (only a few kiosks for folk arts and souvenirs + you can make a photo with Georgian shepherd's clothes!:) So, any ideas, anybody?

That is how it looks form inside. Picture a bit blurry, but shows the style of the icons - and the altar is behind this wall.

The list appeared almost chronological, as this is church is actually new. No over-modern glass and bricks thing - Georgians kept their old style of building churches for their new Cathedral. There are no fresco there yet, as some time must pass until one can paint it. But the grandness (it is the biggest church in Georgia now!) and the surroundings are impressive - recommend not to miss it if you are to visit Tbilisi.