Pochtalion Pechkin at work

For those who have no idea what the title means, the link below is a must-to-see. As a child, I loved this animation character, and even then understood that the local mailman Pechkin took rules too seriously. And yet, he loved his job, and everybody loved him....

Mailman has been such a special profession, over centuries this was the person who kept the remotest villages in touch with the world, carried important messages, life-saving parcels, love letters - his bags stuffed with stories and secrets. One of the most beautiful Chinese movies I have ever seen was about a postman, who has been delivering post his whole life. In the end he leaves for one last journey visiting the rural mountain communities together with his son, who is overtaking the job. Amazing scenery, tranquility, philosophical depth...and a postman, on his tiring journey, dutifully treading his path.

Ok, now lets return to reality and every day life. Maybe postman once was a noble profession, but it is hard to believe in it nowadays. Especially in Georgia, a post office is a mystical place for me. The system seems to be constructed to discourage people from using the post office services. And I'm not complaining - listen to the facts:

1.It is always so hard to FIND the post office. I couldn't find any photo of the post office building, but usually I look for the most run down house on the street, often with bars on the windows, and a tiny A4 format piece of paper on the door that mentions "POST". It looks something like that:

It says that the post office moved to another place - but there the sign looked almost the same

2.Once you get to the post office, you have to know how it operates. And it can be different in different places. If you want to send stuff, just bring it with you, and there you can get all the envelopes, stamps and everything you need. Don't bring your crazy ideas about just buying stamps - why do you need them after all? If you are persistent, you will be sent to another office next door; in a smaller office you might even get to buy those stamps - and a shrug with shoulders as a bonus.

Interior of one small post office, recorded by one German traveler in 2008. He seemed quite charmed and probably enjoyed his stay here quite a lot!

3.When you are sending stuff, it is always better to know the name of countries in Georgian or in Russian. And be prepared to pay quite much, too. I heard the fast delivery service in Tbilisi costs the same by Georgian Post and by DHL. And to send even a letter abroad can cost ~2 EUR, depending on the weight. So if you didn't get a Christmas postcard from me, please don't take it personally!

4. When you want to receive anything, you should know what it is, when it supposed to arrive, and look out for it in advance. Some of my friends learned the hard way that most of the parcels are sent to one specific post branch in Tbilisi. Mailmen usually do not bring letters or parcels at home - and nobody uses postboxes!

Ant this is why. Photo taken by Simon Chirgwin, http://flic.kr/p/8DdQAQ

So, mailmen come to your home, and bring a small piece of paper which says that you received something at a post office. It has a code and a post office's address, where you have to go and take it. And if its worth exceeds 300GEL - pay custom fee, 18%.
 Sometimes mailman cannot reach the person - if nobody is at home (and postbox is not an option), he can stick the post office note to the door. Today elevator at our house was not working, so I found mine stuck to the door of elevator itself. It's worth to read whatever you find new on your way home!

Whenever I visit a post office, I get the feeling that my case is somewhat special. Several times I was asked, what it is that I got (how can I know - you have my letter, people!). Once my first name was not written, and it caused some puzzle behind the counter. Another time I wanted to send a little thicker envelope, and it became an object of consultations for quite some time. I always wear my best smile to the post office :)

Oh well. At least there are no queues there, ever!

How much of Them do you want here?

Various dictionaries describe "alien" as:
- Owing political allegiance to another country or government; foreign; 
- Belonging to, characteristic of, or constituting another and very different place, society, or person; strange;
- A person who is not included in a group; an outsider.

This is a bitter post, or rather inspired by bitter experience - but I will try to keep complaints to myself, and concentrate on facts and observations. A while ago I posted an entry on integration in a new country - it is a curious process, for both sides. The newcomers must try, but not overstretch  until ridicule. The locals often see foreigners as some curious exotic pets, who need to be cared for, fed regularly and advised on every occasion. I've been on both sides, and did exactly the same - so no judging here. 

But the problem of foreigners - and the BIGGEST 'problem' - is that being different, they always bring change. Adaptation process necessarily means change, it means expanding your comfort zone, opening eyes to new thoughts and ideas, even though some can be exciting and some totally unacceptable. It is a deep issue - the whole Europe has been solving this puzzle for decades already. How much of foreigners do we actually want to see around us?

On one hand, having foreigners to come is good. For small countries it adds prestige, importance, tourism industry adds to the budget. Countries become known and have better chances for various bargains in international arena. It is generally great to be labelled as "open" and "innovative". Having foreigners on the main streets also shows that country is advancing and people from other countries also see their possibilities here. Most countries also declare openness for cultural exchange. 

But is cultural exchange really that positive? Or so widely accepted? In words - perhaps, but reality is often different. As my husband rightly nailed it - nobody really likes foreigners. Showing hospitality is one thing. Having them stay for a while, serving best wines, dancing and singing, partying, travelling together - all that is fine, is great, is...touristy. Bow how many people realize that in order to accommodate someone new, much more will have to change. It's like when people are sitting comfortably on a bench and invite one more to join - they will all have to move and squeeze a little. This is something most people don't think about. 

Hollywood smiles...no more

This is the time of changes in Georgia - after it became clear that the new government will be appointed, everything seems to slow down. Ministries, public services - all is in the waiting mood, not knowing what will happen with them. It is a sad tradition that after changing the top, many staff members are replaced almost automatically... Hopefully, it this happens again, the newcomers will at least be experts of those fields.

It is no secret that Georgian President had plenty of visionary ideas for the country, and started to implement many of them especially before elections. Some were quite successful (I really believe Teach and Learn with Georgia is one of them), some not that thought through. The new government is checking the whole budget now and looking where it is possible to cut down.

Now the story of the day is this famous Presidential Program "Smiley Georgia" (also known as "Hollywood Smiles"). The main idea is that citizens who are over 50 years (and up to 65, although this was not in the brochures...) are entitled to get dental services for free throughout Georgia. They could register and have their teeth changed by mobile doctor crews in various regions throughout the summer. Only yesterday it appeared that the program has been... stopped. Oh, well, you will say? I'd also shrug my shoulders, but for those poor people, who had their teeth pulled out, but won't get any new ones!

There is your Hollywood Smile now, mister whoever decided that!

( this photo is borrowed from here )

p.s. I could not manage to get this info in English and confirm it myself, but I was assured that this program has been suspended... still hoping that - maybe - it's not true...!

A story about one Very Big Boss

This is the story about an old dying parrot, fake mandarin tree and some interesting ways of doing business in Tbilisi (luckily or not, you won't see it every day!).

One Saturday morning we were going to buy a lock for our door - flat renovations takes quite some time, and every weekend is so precious! After searching online a bit, found a shop calles smth like "European Construction House", or similar, and went to look for it. That day there had to be big demonstrations of oposition party in the very center of the city, so we were in a hurry to finish all the buying business before it starts. Hehe, what kind of hurry....

It took a while to find this shop. The girl who answered the phone gave a deep sigh and vaguely explained where it is - no, you found the storage house, you have to walk right and find another office, where the sign says somewhat different name than expected. Well, good job hiding! After ringing at the door we have to wait a bit. The girl opens the door and invites us to come over, showing the stairs to the second floor - please go up there. We get to the second floor - two rooms with the glass doors, empty, not a living soul around. We get down to look for our girl. "Oh," - she says, - "The boss is away." Ok, we will wait, ok, we will sit down for a bit. We take a seat near the door and pass the time looking at posters on the walls and fake mandarin trees "growing" around. Posters show that the firm is standing well, doing some serious governmental projects. Apparently, selling door locks is not their primary occupation. After good twenty minutes and reminders to the girl that we are still here, there comes HE.

His head is high up, he holds the pose of a Very Important Person, gives a few directions to the girl and to another man that entered with him (maybe a security guard?). He is wearing slippers - well, of course, you should feel comfortable while doing a very important business. Without a single glance at us he climbs up the stairs in full dignity and disappears on the second floor. To our questioning looks the girl explains - it appears, we have been waiting not so much for the director, but for his assistant, who all this time has been in..... the kitchen (?????) and will come in a minute. Open smiles on our faces, but still waiting, at least from curiosity it is worth to see what will come next.

Assistant comes in with full elegance and invites us upstairs. We are led through the glass-door office and double door with double security - to the room of the very Boss.... Oh boy, it is a huge apartment, with a long meeting table, closets, books, family photos, lots of things on the shelves, chairs and everywhere - sure, business is a serious thing. We have a chance to look around while walking good 15 meters across the room towards HIM. The signs of status catch the eye: various souvenirs, attributes, and especially a plate on the table that says - "Ostorozhno, shef ne v duxe". We are asked what could interest us? We want a door lock, we say. Aham, aham, he listens to us with due seriousness and confirms, yes, we have door locks. Gives some directions to his assistant and she takes us away with her - through the double security door, to another room. Asks to wait a bit again. Next to the sofa there is a parrot cage with one bird inside - great, watching it will help pass the time! Oh no, wrong again... After a second glance it appears that the poor parrot has lost some feathers and looks pretty sick - head down, just holding to its perch in the cage and seems like it is just, just about to fall.... Next to the bird cage the security guard turned on his computer and started watching the news and playing cards at the same time - apparently, a usual activity that is not hidden from clients or anyone. Now we are openly giggling and waiting, what will come next.

The assistant returns with two locks and some sort of catalog. Shows one, another - good, Finnish locks, price is also quite alright, seems like we got lucky after all! And then she goes: "Wait please, I need to show it to the Boss first." Oh boy! Hasn't he seen it before??? She disappears behind the double door and we remain waiting. It appeared, the boss really needs to control everything - she has brought completely wrong locks! We get a catalog this time, with a quite limited choice again: "So we have this one, and that one, the price will be almost double compared with the first ones. If you want to buy, you should call us later and we will book it at our storage place."


We do not get to see the Boss again, thank them for the highlight of the day and rush out of that place. In another shop it took fifteen minutes to get everything we wanted. Interesting, that this time everyone wore shoes, and Boss's desk/fake mandarins/dying parrots were nowhere to be seen...

Polite or Helpful

The other day I was riding a marshrutka, standing with a heavy bag on my shoulder - it took exactly 20 seconds for a woman sitting nearby to suggest that she could hold it for me, and no no, this is really not a problem, and cmon, it will be easier for me. I took different buses and marshrutkas several times that day, and the same story repeated each time.
It got me thinking: so many times I was complaining that Georgians lack politeness - not that nobody smiles on the street, but people can push you, cut line right in front of you; drivers always beep their horns and shout on each other (and swear too! oh gosh, that's where I'm learning all the swearing words in Georgian....). And they never let the pedestrian cross the street at the zebra place - don't even try that. But I don't want to continue complaining - the point is, being a polite foreigner, one can get really frustrated and stressed out on the street. You have to struggle and fight for yourself, every single day and in many situations. And you also have to get rude at times. Which is hard.
But one thing that outweighs all of this is the extreme warmth and helpfulness of the people when you are in trouble. Not even very serious trouble: if you need to find your way, or to get some information, or you're carrying something heavy, and need an extra hand - there will always be someone near and ready to assist. People give help and ask for it a lot - something that is quite forgotten in some Western countries, where it's just so important to be independent.
I still think that being polite is necessary, and that it helps to make everybody's life just less intense and more pleasant. But being helpful is something so much more real.
If I even had to present Georgia and Georgian people, I would surely put it as a point #1.

Who rules the rules

Recently I've been thinking about freedom, and where it actually comes from. I was reading a travel blog of my friends, who are trotting around the world - what an ultimate sense of freedom it must be! Living in such simplicity, surrounded by nature, people and silence, and having the rules that make sense. 

Cause there are so many rules that don't really make sense. We limit ourselves - mostly, to feel safer and more comfortable, and to not need to try what's new and unexpected. That's one thing the world could learn from Georgia - braveness to give it a try. If there is a space, it means it's possible to pass through it; if there is a chair, it means it's possible to sit on it. There is no questioning, "oh, is it allowed?" Of course, it is allowed. And if not, you'll find out in due time - but till then maybe you will have achieved what you wanted already. I guess, it's a survival skill, quite lost in richer countries. 

We are so careful in Lithuania. Sometimes it makes sense, of course (!!!), but other times just stops you from improvising. And getting you where you didn't expect to go, but where you'd enjoy yourself the most. 

Coffee power

Have you noticed that whenever you are in a hurry and decide to just "run real fast" to the nearest shop on the way, something must go wrong.
In the morning I was nearly late but needed to refill my coffee supplies. Morning in the office always goes more smoothly with a cup of coffee, and I was already imagining a full cup just 5 min from that moment. The shop was almost empty, I quickly took all I wanted.............and then I got to the cashier's. Following conversation is almost identical, roughly translated from Georgian:
-Mari, let's open another cashier.
-OK, let me count all the coins from this one.
(pause, me and a construction worker in front with a bottle of beer waiting)
(while Mari is moving to another cashier, her colleague at this one is tidying up)
(we understood that we should also probably move to another cashier)
(Mari there is still unpacking coins)
-OK, please come closer. Oh no, there is no paper in the printer... Please return to the first cashier.
(quickly and quietly me and the construction worker move in between the cashiers)
-Sir, you got the price wrong. Please add one more lari (or how much it was)
-Oh, really? Then please, cancel the cigarettes.
-Hmmm...ok, lets see.....
(click click click....click click)
(pause)
-Mari.
(pause)
-What?
(pause)
(pause)
(pause)
-What is the code for the beer glasses?


Patience and strong wish of morning coffee can prevail against anything.

...If only... :)

Borrowed from  http://www.cartoonstock.com/

Off Shopping

After a week-long trip home I suddenly realized how much I have adapted here in Georgia. It took two years, and of course, there are still things that surprise me - but overall, everything seems somewhat "normal", including relaxed lifestyle, occasional power/water breakdowns, and even the August heat (boy it's melting everything!).
I just realize things more consciously now. For example, shopping this weekend taught me a lesson that with patience you can win anything. And that the sellers hold their personal respect higher than possibility to sell and earn (quite a lot of) money. That's how it works in some shops.
If you enter and see a lot of people, prepare yourself. We were pro-active, checked all the goods in the shop ourselves, even took some samples to carry around (till this day I don't know if they were left on the table for this purpose...) and tried to make the choice. During the process we chose one seller and from time to time caught her by the hand to ask some question. In the end, caught the same seller and told that we are ready and to give us some attention. Abra kadabra - it worked! And all those polite customers who would like to get personal service will have to come another time...and maybe to some other place :)

Another point about shopping in Georgia. Often people who have been travelling in Turkey or in Eastern Asia are expecting to bargain hard and get things so cheaply. After all, Georgia is considered a developing country! Oh well, I have only one thing to tell here: it's just completely wrong. Georgia is not that cheap at all; and while bargaining one can get down 20% off the price....max. And if you offer too low price, the seller might get offended and won't want to talk to you anymore.

The best way to get what you want is communication - friendly informal chat will open many doors and give lots of information, unreachable otherwise. Good luck shopping!

We're going for a picnic!

Georgia is not rich in lakes - that was unfortunate comparison with Lithuania, where half an hour by car is max time needed - and you already dive into a cool fresh water on a hot summer day.

Yet - yet! - nostalgia does not last long, and then you look around for local treasures. Last weekend I went for a picnic outside the city. Just half an hour drive, and we were among trees and fields, breathing in with full lungs the fresh air. It appears, in the outskirts of Tbilisi there are many open - air fireplaces, ready and waiting for picnic'ers (I'm pretty sure it's not a real word. But bear with me) to come and enjoy. In the place where I was, we even found barbeque sticks tied in a tree, ready for anyone to use. That's what I call barbeque culture!

Tables for picnics are arranged everywhere - e.g. near ancient fortresses and towers

Fun fact about Georgia is that if you find a secluded place and you think you're alone, it doesn't mean it will last for long. If someone finds it and likes it as well, they won't mind that you're just a few meters away, and the aroma of their mtsvadi will mix in the air with yours very soon. The more, the merrier - that is definitely a valid motto here!

Covered from the road by trees - it was a perfect place for improvised barbeque

This fortress is near Tbilisi; it takes some time and effort to hike up there....but if you have a powerful jeep, you can simply get up there with all picnic equipment - that's what we saw when we finally got there, a small piglet roasting on fire and supra at its peak!

One of the most impressive sausages I have ever seen - all in one! Found while shopping for a picnic, more than a year ago.

From "wooden ship" to sensitivity

Never before I really thought what it means to be sensitive towards different ethnicities. Not only being respectful, but also communicating it, in the right way. That the famous cake in Lithuania "Negriukas" can sound like a deadly insult to somebody. That people can leave the room only because somebody said the "N" word out loud, in English. Or that there is a difference between "people of color" and "colored people".

So many misunderstandings can come just from the fact that we don't know about each other, what is sensitive in other cultures and what is actually not. I remember a story how in one hotel in Vilnius a Latino guest was asked to show some additional documents, only because he was served by a new receptionist who followed the rules with more scrutiny. He took it personally and it wasn't easy for personnel to calm him down! You never know where you can get an intercultural lesson.

Here in Georgia I heard many stories that make one smile. Like, people expressing their affection to foreigners of other ethnicity in the most inappropriate language - but so honestly and warmly, that their intentions couldn't be mistaken. Or when someone would point at differently looking people on the street and shout names at them - this is not funny, but makes one raise both eyebrows and think, why would anybody do that?. When even wearing red sneakers can be considered "Weird....", it is hard to stand out of the crowd. But still worth it. Because it is really interesting to watch how diversity transforms from an "old old wooden ship" into something more real. What will it bring here? I wonder...

Multilingual everyday

If someone told me that one day I will have to speak three languages at once, wondering in the fourth how it's possible - I would have smiled at his/hers imagination. And yet - that is my everyday life now. At home we speak English and Georgian, supported with Russian where nothing else can help. Although the body-language also often comes handy. I try to blend in with my little Georgian, using it in shops, taxis, post offices - even struggling on the phone sometimes. And in my gym my trainer only speaks Russian, so here it goes - all the Soviet cartoon vocabulary suddenly became useful!
It is funny to think that in some places in the very heart of Tbilisi you wouldn't be able to communicate in official language. And even more - nobody seems to care about it! I actually like it.
 
Maybe I should work on spreading some Lithuanian too. If only we used more gestures to follow it.

Winter challenges in Tbilisi. Shower.

You would think that the worst winter can bring is cold and darkness. Yet if you can escape from it - say, to relaxing hot bath, everything becomes much easier. In Georgia, luckily, there is plenty of sun even in the winter; coldness is mild; and snow/rain - pretty rare as well. However. Recently one of my biggest challenges every morning/evening has become... taking shower. Fellow 'Tbilisians' will know what I mean: during "rush hours" water can be simply too cold even on maximum, it can be turning off all the time; water temperature changing up and down is not unusual either. As I was explained, this is because water is heated with gas, and in winter everyone is using much more gas - to heat the rooms, to cook, etc. Looking on the bright side, contrast shower is considered a healthy thing - and really I haven't been ill this year!
Still, it is also stressful when hot water disappears just after you have got all soapy (been there.....). So we have worked some strategies how to avoid it and enjoy water procedures without big interruptions. Effective 75%.

• To start with, turn on the water and leave it for a while. Temperature will get steady and you will know if it is worth to get under water - or to wait for the better times.
• Ask for help. If someone will be nearby to check if the gas works properly, in case it turns off you at least won't need to get out of the bathroom to turn it on again.
• At least in our home water temperature can be regulated both by the tap, and at the gas heater - one can put the flames higher or lower. Therefore, everyone regulates it only at the gas heater and DOES NOT TOUCH the tap. Keep it on maximum and hope for the best. 
• The taps in the bathroom and in the kitchen are somehow connected. Nobody should open water tap in the kitchen while you're showering - it will reduce pressure in the bathroom, and temperature might drop as well. 
• Consider taking shower when people do not use much gas - early in the morning or late at night (after 11pm). It's just safer.
• And finally, our latest discovery - if you leave the window in the kitchen (where the gas heater is) open, there is less chance that gas will turn off.

Sounds ridiculous? oh well...some time ago I wouldn't have thought I would ever need such strategies. But if you are there...you just live and learn, and be creative.

First snowboarding experience/Pirmąkart ant snieglentės

"Do not try to slide into a tree or anything like that... it just won't work". <...> "If you want to have sore muscles or look like a moron - sure, go ahead, use your arms for turning." Such and more "youtube" advice followed me this weekend, on my first snowboarding trip. Here in Georgia winter sports are very popular (and easy to practice). You just get into car/marshrutka/taxi/plane - depending on your social status, wallet depth, destination and will for comfort. Oh sorry - will for comfort is quite a commonality here in Georgia, so just consider your abilities and get ready.

"Nebandykit stabdyti čiuoždami į medį ar dar ką nors... tokie metodai neveikia" <...>; "Jei norit skaudančių raumenų ir atrodyt kaip avinai - pirmyn, naudokitės rankomis posūkiuose". Tokie ir panašūs "youtube" pamokų patarimai mane išlydėjo į pirmąjį nuotykį su snieglente šį savaitgalį. Čia Gruzijoje žiemos sportu užsiimėti labai populiaru - ir lengva. Tereikia įšokti į mašiną/mikriuką/taksi/lėktuvą - priklausomai nuo jųsų statuso, piniginės gylio, vietos kur važiuojate ir komforto troškimo. Nors tiesa - komforto čia Gruzijoje nori visi, tad geriau tiesiog pasverti galimybes ir pasiruošti įdomiam savaitgaliui. 

There are 4 winter resorts: Gudauri (up to 3 hours from Tbilisi; pretty steep hills; a bit expensive,but it's not necessary to stay overnight), Mestia (new and very far away, in the West-North mountains; president goes there), Bakuriani (kind of family place, beginner-friendly, but could work for more advanced skiers/snowboarders too. 4-5 hour drive, so you'll definitely need to stay there overnight) and - Betania.

Gruzijoje yra keturi žiemos kurortai: Gudauris (apie 3 val kelio nuo Tbilisio; gana statūs šlaitai; šiek tiek brangėlesnis, bet norint sutaupyti nebūtina apsistoti ten pernakt), Mestija (naujas kurortas toli šalies šiaurės-vakaruose; čia ir gali prireikti lėktuvo - prezidentas ten dažnai keliauja, kiek rodo TV), Bakuriani (šeimyniškas kurortas, tinkantis ir pradedantiesiems, ir labiau patyrusiems slidininkams/snieglentininkams. Apie 4-5val kelio nuo Tbilisio, tad greičiausiai teks apsistoti čia bent vienai nakčiai), ir galiausiai - Betanija.

The last one is where I went. It is practically on the outskirts of Tbilisi, very comfortable for one day trip. The place is usually full of families with kids, and beginning skiers and snowboarders (the so called "chainiks", as I was explained). Which is great, cause when you fall, you know you're not the only one.

Į paskutinįjį aš ir keliavau savęs išbandyti. Betanija yra praktiškai Tbilisio užmiestyje, tad labai patogu ten nuvažiuoti kad ir popietei praleisti. Kaip supratau, dažniausiai čia pilna šeimų su vaikais, taip pat pradedančiųjų slidininkų ir snieglentininkų (vadinamų "čainikais", kaip man buvo paaiškinta:). Ir tai tikrai puiku, nes ritantis nuo tos kalvos žemyn niekas nesijaučia vienišas - aplinkui daug tokių, bandančių išmokti išlaikyti pusiausvyrą ant sniego. 

We rented our snowboards in the city - and that was very smart, cause we didn't need to queue for them at the place. And also we could get it cheaper for a better choice: 20 GEL per day for one snowboard + special boots, quite good deal.

Savo snieglentes nuomavomės mieste - ir labai gerai padarėme, nes atvažiavus nereikėjo stovėti ilgėliausių eilių prie nuomos punkto (kur neaišku kas bebuvo likę). O išvakarėse pavyko visai neblogai susitarti: dvidešimt larių (apie trisdešimt litų) dienai už snieglentę ir specialius batus. Su pritvirtinimais ir palinkėjimais. 
 
I was pretty excited to get on the board - but fun thing was, our taxi drivers were just as excited for us! When one of them sent radio-greetings on the second day morning, I started thinking that it was totally worth it. It seems, skiing is quite usual in Georgia, and snowboarding arouses much more emotions.

Važiuodama nekantravau pirmą kartą užlipti ant snieglentės - bet įdomiausia, ir gan netikėta, kad mūsų taksi vairuotojai džiūgavo ne ką mažiau:) Kai antros dienos rytą gavome linkėjimų per taksi radiją nuo vakarykščio vairuotojo, pagalvojau, kad visai verta buvo. Panašu,kad slidinėjimas Gruzijoj įprastas ir nieko nenustebins, bet snieglentės sukelia kur kas daugiau emocijų. 

And for the end - how it all looks like. Oh well.... I guess in the beginning it goes pretty much like this:
Ir galiausiai - kaip visa tai atrodė iš tiesų. Hmmm..... pradžioje turbūt ėjosi maždaug šitaip:

No, I didn't try to jump. And I didn't fall THAT painfully. But I did fall... a lot...And it all felt like "oh my, oh my, Im going down the hill, and it's all so fast, NOW WHAT SHOULD I DOOOOO, STOOOOP!!!!" :)

Ne, aš šokinėti per tramplinus nebandžiau. Ir nekritau TAIP skausmingai. Bet tiesa, teko kristi.... ir ganėtinai nemažai...ir jausmas tai buvo maždaug "o varge, o varge, leidžiuosi žemyn, o koks greitis, O KĄ DABAR DARYYYYT??? KAIP SUSTOOOOOOOT???" :)

But luckily, the second day was much better from the start. I guess the whole body somehow adapts to the snowboard and starts to feel it - so hopefully, little by little advancing, snowboarding will become pure enjoyment.

Bet visa laimė, antra diena prasidėjo žymiai ramiau ir užtikrinčiau - tikriausiai kūnas tiesiog prisitaikė prie snieglentės, pasidarė lengiau jausti ir kontroliuoti savo judesius, išlaikyti pusiausvyrą - tad tikiuosi, pamažu tobulėjant snieglentė taps gyvenimo būdo dalis, kuria bus galima tiesiog mėgautis. 

In the midst of Holiday Season

Holiday season in Georgia is a serious business. First - it's long. If you're a Catholic, it starts on December 24th and continues till..... well, it still hasn't finished, and for a week or two everyone will be still celebrating. So you have to be strong, have a good stomach - or some "Mezym Forte" and mineral water at hand...And don't think that I am joking - food is another serious thing about holidays. Special dishes for New Year, two three layers on the tables, then turn for a roasted gochi (piglet) on Christmas, Jan 7th, and lots of guests/visiting each other in between of those days - so the table is always laid and ready for someone to sit! Even though I did have 12 dishes on Christmas Eve, as we are used in Lithuania, it was nothing comparing to New Year - and I have no idea what is awaiting on Christmas!.. Fiesta to all gourmands, which makes me understand the meaning of fasting.....

There are a couple of other things that I noticed here and that got me intrigued. For example, most Georgians have the fake Christmas trees at home, not the real ones. At first it looked strange, but on the other hand... someone has to grow those specially, in order that there would be enough and people wouldn't cut the precious forests. So to save the trees, there is a point in that. Actually, you can get the real Christmas trees too - but only few days before New Year. And there is another option - to buy a stick covered with live branches; they are tied in a way to look like a real Christmas tree. Original?

Georgians also have their own Christmas tree, called chichilaki (ჩიჩილაკი). It is made from straight hazelnut branches, shaved into a form of a curly little tree. Here is a good BBC piece on it. I find it kind of lovely - and it's certainly the area, where Georgians are environment friendly. Which means - it can work.

You know it when you see it - Ken Hensley in Tbilisi!

This weekend was just great! Not only because of sun and warmth; and not only because it was weekend; and not only because we went to a concert. Ken Hensley, the founder of legendary Uriah Heep was in Tbilisi for an acoustic concert, and he made it all real special (Uriah Heep is this really famous rock band from the 70s, of which I found out only last year, even though some songs had been surely familiar. So I guess I can't be very snobbish and up-nosed about it now, can I...?).

The concert was simple, in a cozy semi-renovated hall, for less than 500 people, just Ken Hensley and his guitar/piano; later a local band joined (how cool is that, to play with such a celebrity? One of the pluses of Georgia - it's a small country, and community of any alternative trends is even smaller = you can be really special easier:). People could ask questions, and they did - from the most banal ("how do you like our country") to quite interesting ones; from short and concrete to remembrance stories ("do you remember how you were playing "July Morning" in Tokio and drinking water simultaneously?" He did! And he repeated it!). And in this small hall he gave all himself to people who came to listen; and you could really feel that it's a real music, something of a value, something not to be missed.

My favorite track (okok, the only on e I knew before the concert...:)) but still great, rait? :)

Just couldn't stop comparing it to the concert of Bob Dylan in Vilnius, a couple of years ago. The Great Musician was sitting almost his back to people; everyone was asked to remain seated, not to stand or dance or move in any way. The whole evening reminded a public movie screening - he was equally remote, just like all his band. Why did they even come there, no idea. Thanks to Ken Hensley though, for bringing back my faith in great musicians and their music.

Back to USSR or happy Sarkozoba!

I like the Beatles, and I do like their songs - but this one sometimes makes me depressed. Especially when I see it become a reality - in the most amazingly obvious way.

Today the whole Georgia - or at least its capital Tbilisi (but anyway almost half of the country lives here) - celebrates a semi-official festival "Sarkozoba". The title came from a Georgian fashion to add a suffix '-oba' to the names of their celebrations. And it has little to do with Sarkozy himself - his only contribution is that he came here to Tbilisi today. He is indeed a well known politician of a powerful country, who deserves some respect. No argument here. But Saakashvili's office has an interesting attitude to paying respects to someone important.
First, the annual celebration Tbilisoba was moved from the end of October to match the weekend of Sarkozy's visit. Now some say it is because of the bad weather in the end of October. But Tbilisoba usually marked the end of grape harvest in all the regions, so that many people could bring their grape or fresh wine to Tbilisi for this day. Thus even though the sun will be shining this weekend, the whole occasion kind of looses its original sense. Well, unless Sarkozy will stay until tomorrow and will be able to see the fun of Georgian people.
Also, today was an official day-off in all schools and public institutions. And yet not for free - all public officials had to attend obligatory gathering on the main -Rustaveli- street, which was organized to greet Sarkozy. Can you imagine, whole long street full of people - what a warm greeting it had to be! I wonder if Mr.Sarkozy actually knew how these people appeared there. But I know, because I have seen with my own eyes how over 40 special buses passed towards Rustaveli, full of people, just half an hour before the official meeting. Some said that it probably brought people from the regions, though others thought that they just gathered officials from the ministries.

Does not it remind the sad soviet experience, when everyone was forced to participate in the official parades on national holidays? I was told, my grandfather would come out to the street and start sweeping it while the parade was passing - it was his protest, of which I am so proud. It seemed that the soviet era finished. But the soviet style of celebrating somehow still finds its way...

Oh, show me round your snow peaked
mountain way down south
Take me to you daddy's farm
Let me hear you balalaika's ringing out
Come and keep your comrade warm
I'm back in the USSR
Hey, You don't know how lucky you are, boy
Back in the USSR...

P.S. Next morning addition - it appeared that those public officials were searched by security before entering the square; some items, like mirrors or umbrellas were taken away. Then they had to stay there for 3 hours, while whole meeting with Sarkozy lasted only half an hour. And to think that a low ranking official earns ~400 GEL (that is, ~180 EUR)...

Have I been to Azerbaijan? David Gareja.

Traveling around Georgia is always surprising - and this weekend proved to be one more occasion. I have heard a lot about David Gareja, a 'monastery in a desert', and seen photos of it. But it's nothing like the real experience.
We organized this trip with several friends, rented out a minibus (a very comfortable and extremely cheap means of travel! It can cost ~150 GEL, which is nothing if you are 8-12 people) and after 1,5 hours drive reached the hills of David Gareja. The areas around drew emptier with each kilometer, and towards the end of journey one was surrounded by a vast space, almost uninhabited, with wind brushing freely through the low bushes and wide fields of golden grass. It was not the desert that I imagined (you know, sand, no plants, no life) - but certainly could be used for movies about the Wild West, when colonizers were only settling in America. Probably they had the same sense of freedom in those spaces, where there is no living creature around, as far as you can see.

The monastery itself appeared to be a very special place too. Founded in the 6th century, it developed over hundreds of years into a huge complex, stretched over 11 km (or more?), part of which is in the territory of Azerbaijan now. It was not an accident that these monasteries appeared in such a desolated place - harsh environment pleased the monks, who wanted to isolate themselves from worldly distractions. I mostly liked the legend about the spring of water called "David's tears" - I was told that the spring appeared miraculously, after st.David Garejeli was praying for several days from all his heart. It is now the only spring of drinkable water there. Monks were (are?) also collecting rain water - there are beds cut in stone for it to run in deep holes downhill.
When you look around inside, it is hard to imagine how monks could live there, in cells of stone. And yet, next to more modern parts of buildings, there are numerous caves, some of which seem inhabited. They are not very big, carved alongside the hills, and sometimes separated by low walls from the curious tourists. It doesn't always stop them :) I saw one monk trying to get several teenagers-explorers go down, they were climbing up the stone slopes straight to monk cells! :)

They say, visiting David Gareja three times equals going once to Jerusalem

I was surprised to discover that monks have solar batteries

 

Some parts of the monastery are more modern

But that was where adventure just started - to see the whole beauty, you must go hiking over the hill to Azerbaijan border! It is good to train or exercise a little before this trip, but even my lazy muscles handled it. We asked a month the way and started climbing, up and up the winding path. There are usually some more people on this path, so no chances to get lost. But - there are chances to fall and break your leg. Even worse - to fall to Azerbaijan and become illegal injured person!
It is interesting how the two countries divided this place. It seems Georgians were offering some other territories to Azerbaijan, in exchange to surroundings of David Gareja, but Azeris refused. For one, they don't want to loose the hills around, which they think are strategic for defense (in case Georgians would think of smth nasty). But another reason is even more interesting - it appeared this territory was home to ancient Albanians (I am not sure if they have anything to do with nowadays Albania....), whom Azeris claim to be their ancestors. When you think about it, it is natural, that Azerbaijan would not give up their 'ancient lands' so easily. The ethnic mix up of the Caucasus......

When you climb up the hill and reach the peak of it, you have to go a little down on the other side to reach another part of the monastery (or - another monastery, as several of them were founded just next to each other). The path goes around, encircling both parts, so you don't have to return the same way. Which is a good thing - even though the views are impressive, it is so steep and dangerous to walk there! There are no safety measures, no fence, no rope, only metal sticks, which probably were connected by some rope some time ago. Now they mainly mark the path, so you would be sure where to go. There were some scary moments up there, especially when there was slippery sand on the path, or strong wind pushed us harder.

But it was SO worth it! The caves on the other side continue through the whole hill-side, and some of them have frescoes from 11-13 century! It is amazing touch of history, which you can feel so personally, so intimately, without museum glass. Even though with a little thrill of danger.

The path along Georgia-Azerbaijan border

Frescoes outside the ancient church

One of the main parts of David Gareja monastery complex, facing Azerbaijan. Georgia is just on the other side of it!

Summer - out of the - city

Listening to Joe Cocker and thinking about this summer I realized how romanticized is this idea of spending the hot days on the concrete. Yes. It has its own charm - being one of the few residents in your city, feeling as if you owned it, while walking half-empty streets.You can slow down your pace and enjoy the space, usually filled with all the hustle-and-bustle.

Yeah.... but really, when the thermometer jumps over 30 (or over 40!!!), I can honestly admit - the only thing I can think about is how to GET OUT somewhere where it's green and fresh, and shady, and you can drink something nice and cool, in the breaks between swimming in the cool water..... mmm...

This year I actually had a chance to escape a little bit. There was no water - but there was green and fresh,and cool too. I went to Bakuriani, a Georgian skiing resort. The main noise raises there in winter, when everyone comes for skiing - but in summer it is a perfect place for families with small kids; and for summer schools, conferences, trainings and seminars. As I don't have small kids, I went there for a summer school. That didn't give me much time to discover all that is to be seen there, but only to get to a place where it's 10 degrees cooler than in Tbilisi (i.e.,~27:)!!!.... it was amazing - I wanted to sleep all the time (because I finally could!), and go for a walks around the village, to breath the air of pine trees... The only drawback is that in such places there is really not much to do. There was only one bar open in summer time, and I didn't have enough time to ride horses (and courage too, actually..). So making circles around the village (that is, ~5 km on foot in a fine circle), buying ice-cream in small local shops or hanging around our hotel (which was once grand, and didn't change much since then:) took all my free time. I managed, though, to get into shoes of many people who decide to spend their holidays with a family somewhere in the mountains. To put it in one sentence: very quiet, very fresh, slow - and takes some imagination to find entertainment for oneself.

For P.S. - sharing a few views of the place:

Bakuriani in winter. Taken from here

....aaaand this is the place in summer:

If you stand in the middle of the valley you can see similar views 360 degrees around. Taken from here.

Where did Stalin go?

The other night I was watching Georgian TV, and there appeared to be a show about Stalin statue in Gori - it was removed from central square only last June, in the most curious and secret way, and until now it is still missing. There were several points in this story that I keep wondering about: why did his statue stay in the center of the town for so long? Now, I could write pages of what I think about his cruelty and cynicism, yet it seems Gori people don't feel very touched by such ideas. You see, Joseph was born in Gori, and for this small town it is something that makes it known. Most people don't know that he never returned to Gori after becoming a 'big man' in Moscow. But in Stalin's museum (which charges a crazy price for the entrance!) you will be told all about his life in his young days, with his childhood house and a lots of busts and medals, and literature, and presents that he received (the last one dated 1999, from China. Says a lot, doesn't it)....... all devoted to show how great leader he was.

A painting from Stalin's museum

So that is the second mystery for me - the museum, which does not mention anything negative about Stalin and completely ignores the atrocities that he ordered in his USSR times. It gives very strange view of the history - though at the same time it is interesting to watch, how people actually believe in this version. I wanted so so much to ask something provoking to the ladies working at the museum, but my Georgian was not that good then. Maybe next time:) because there was even an idea to make a museum of a museum. I.e., to leave it all as it is and to show the tourists - that's how we portrayed Stalin in the communist times. Would be interesting!

Another mystery however, was how Stalin's statue disappeared from the main square of Gori. Local people were not so enthusiastic to let go the statue; so the authorities came in the middle of the night, surrounded the square with police and silently took the statue. Nobody knew, nobody saw - just in the morning surprised Gori people saw that the square was empty. Now this I don't understand also - why to make it so secretly? Not to meet any protesters, they said - but so what if people protest? It's their right, and at least they could do what graffiti on the walls saying "We want Stalin back" (or smth like that).

 But the biggest question of all is - where did the statue go? More than a year passed: it is not in the museum, it is not in the city center and nobody talks about it anymore. One mocking journalist (forgot his name....) tried to burst into cabinets of municipality with this question - but nobody could answer him. And though his questioning style looked quite intrusive (though of course, I couldn't understand it all), I agree on one point - there is no meaning to hide such things from people. If you are right, you will act openly. And if you have to hide it only rises new questions... 

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Ok, after writing this one I heard some doubts, that maybe it actually IS in the museum. Will have to go check some time. Crazy story, in any case :)