Lacrimosa

Some days are just worse than all others. Heavy. Unbearable. Stretched to infinity. When all you want to do is shut yourself off from the world, crawl under the blankets and disappear.

What do you do?
Wait
Run
Walk for hours, until your feet starts aching
Talk about it
Be silent about it
Let yourself be sad
Cry
Pull yourself together
Listen to something soothing, that would help to take your thoughts away.
Like something heavy.
or Mozart
or Vintage Trouble.
Just drift in the music, until it's all over.

Atgal į mokyklą

Pastaruoju metu turėjau labai įdomią galimybę - apsilankyti gruziniškose mokyklose! Važiavau stebėti pamokų ir jau buvau gal penkiose mokyklose - įspūdžių susikaupė tiek, kad norisi papasakoti plačiau.

Gruziniškos mokyklos, jos yra... labai gyvos! Vos įėjus pro duris pasitinka šurmulys - kartais ir pamokų metu. Mažiukai pirmokėliai turi trumpesnes pamokas, vos 35min. Tad jų pertraukos dažniausiai nesutampa su vyresniųjų ir jie gali mėgautis laisve koridoriuose, kol kiti skaičiuoja minutes iki pertraukos. O tada...

Pertrauka. 
Po pirmųjų apsilankymų man kilo toks didelis klausimas: kaip vaikai mokyklose nieko nesusilaužo??? Vietoj to jie kaip guminukai atšoka nuo durų, sienų, laiptų, kitų vaikų, šokinėja, bėga, krykštauja ir šūkauja, dainuoja, žaidžia ir visaip kaip stengiasi išnaudoti tas trumpas 5 ar 10 minučių. Pertraukos čia trumpos, o pietų pertraukos nėra - vaikai paprastai atsineša kokį lauknešėlį iš namų išsitraukia jį per vieną iš trumpųjų pertraukų. Tuo tarpu mokytojai stengiasi išlaviruoti per judančią krutančią minią iki mokytojų kambario.

Mokytojų kambarys. 
Kai buvau maža, mokytojų kambarys atrodė labai paslaptingai - įeinant reikėdavo pasibelsti, o ten, už uždarų durų, mokytojos gyveno savo gyvenimą, kalbėdavosi ir spręsdavo REIKALUS. Panašiai ir yra - tai mokytojų užuovėja ir užuobėga, kur jos gali šiek tiek pailsėti nuo triukšmo, išgerti kavos (kai kuriose mokyklose - ir parūkyti..). Gruzijoje mokytojos niekada nesineša gėrimų ar maisto į klases - nebent vandens buteliuką. Vienas gruzinas pasakojo, kad kai buvo mažas, galvojo, kad mokytojos niekad nevalgo - nes jis niekada nematė jų valgant!

Mokytojos.
Mokytojų būna įvairiausių, bet Gruzijoje (turbūt kaip ir Lietuvoje) matyti didelis skirtumas tarp kartų (ir tai nebūtinai susiję su amžiumi): vienos mokytojos mena ir primena sovietinius laikus ir turi nenuginčijamą įsitikinimą, kad "tie metodai buvo kur kas geresni". Jos kalba pakeltu balsu (nes taip vaikai geriau išmoks), tranko per stalą ranka, kad mokiniai nesikalbėtų ir liepia antrokėliams sėdėti rankas laikant už nugaros.
Visa laimė, tokių mokytojų sutikau tik keletą - kitos stengėsi sudominti vaikus ir kūrybiškai vedė pamokas. Dabar mokytojai turi vis daugiau galimybių: idėjos internete, su vadovėliais gaunami plakatai, specialios kortos su paveikslėliais, CD ir DVD diskai, mokomieji filmukai.... žinoma, realybė kartais apriboja: ne visose mokyklose yra CD grotuvai; apie filmukus galima pamiršti - net ir atsinešus kompiuterį, tai nebūtų išeitis, nes klasėse - apie 30 mokinių... Ir vis tik kai kurios mokytojos papirko savo nuosekliu darbu, kantrybe ir  gebėjimu išnaudoti tuos mažus išteklius, kurie joms buvo prieinami.

Pamokoje. 
Ir vis tik įdomiausia buvo stebėti pamokoje. Vaikai dalinasi pieštukais, kuždasi; berniukas savo simpatijai vis pakelia nukritusį megztuką - gal 3 ar 4 kartus; "Masc (mokytoja), kas yra "cake"? - klausia vienas. "Fresent" - atsako vaikai mokytojai skaitant klasės sąrašą. Mažuliukas antrokėlis užsisvajoja ir pamiršta pamoką - tai nesunku, kai klasėje, anglų kalbos pamokoje - 32 mokiniai!
Pamoka - tai gyvas organizmas. Daugelis mokytojų leidžia šiek tiek šurmulio: galima ateiti prie lentos pasižiūrėti, kas ten tiksliai parašyta, galima atsakinėjančiam draugui pasakyti atsakymą - juk mokymasis, šiaip ar taip, komandinis reikalas.

Dar daug reikia nuveikti, kad mokyklos Gruzijoje būtų saugia, efektyvia lavinimosi erdve - dabar daugelis abiturientų stengiasi egzaminams pasiruošti papildomai, o daugelis mokytojų pragyvenimui užsidirba iš papildomų pamokų. Rudenėjant mokyklose šalta, mokinukai sėdi su striukėmis, mokytojos ant pečių užsimeta ilgas skaras (tarsi mokytojiška uniforma). Ir vis tik net ir ten galmia atrasti perliukų, apie kuriuos galvojant taip ir norisi nusišypsoti...

How much of Them do you want here?

Various dictionaries describe "alien" as:
- Owing political allegiance to another country or government; foreign; 
- Belonging to, characteristic of, or constituting another and very different place, society, or person; strange;
- A person who is not included in a group; an outsider.

This is a bitter post, or rather inspired by bitter experience - but I will try to keep complaints to myself, and concentrate on facts and observations. A while ago I posted an entry on integration in a new country - it is a curious process, for both sides. The newcomers must try, but not overstretch  until ridicule. The locals often see foreigners as some curious exotic pets, who need to be cared for, fed regularly and advised on every occasion. I've been on both sides, and did exactly the same - so no judging here. 

But the problem of foreigners - and the BIGGEST 'problem' - is that being different, they always bring change. Adaptation process necessarily means change, it means expanding your comfort zone, opening eyes to new thoughts and ideas, even though some can be exciting and some totally unacceptable. It is a deep issue - the whole Europe has been solving this puzzle for decades already. How much of foreigners do we actually want to see around us?

On one hand, having foreigners to come is good. For small countries it adds prestige, importance, tourism industry adds to the budget. Countries become known and have better chances for various bargains in international arena. It is generally great to be labelled as "open" and "innovative". Having foreigners on the main streets also shows that country is advancing and people from other countries also see their possibilities here. Most countries also declare openness for cultural exchange. 

But is cultural exchange really that positive? Or so widely accepted? In words - perhaps, but reality is often different. As my husband rightly nailed it - nobody really likes foreigners. Showing hospitality is one thing. Having them stay for a while, serving best wines, dancing and singing, partying, travelling together - all that is fine, is great, is...touristy. Bow how many people realize that in order to accommodate someone new, much more will have to change. It's like when people are sitting comfortably on a bench and invite one more to join - they will all have to move and squeeze a little. This is something most people don't think about. 

Hollywood smiles...no more

This is the time of changes in Georgia - after it became clear that the new government will be appointed, everything seems to slow down. Ministries, public services - all is in the waiting mood, not knowing what will happen with them. It is a sad tradition that after changing the top, many staff members are replaced almost automatically... Hopefully, it this happens again, the newcomers will at least be experts of those fields.

It is no secret that Georgian President had plenty of visionary ideas for the country, and started to implement many of them especially before elections. Some were quite successful (I really believe Teach and Learn with Georgia is one of them), some not that thought through. The new government is checking the whole budget now and looking where it is possible to cut down.

Now the story of the day is this famous Presidential Program "Smiley Georgia" (also known as "Hollywood Smiles"). The main idea is that citizens who are over 50 years (and up to 65, although this was not in the brochures...) are entitled to get dental services for free throughout Georgia. They could register and have their teeth changed by mobile doctor crews in various regions throughout the summer. Only yesterday it appeared that the program has been... stopped. Oh, well, you will say? I'd also shrug my shoulders, but for those poor people, who had their teeth pulled out, but won't get any new ones!

There is your Hollywood Smile now, mister whoever decided that!

( this photo is borrowed from here )

p.s. I could not manage to get this info in English and confirm it myself, but I was assured that this program has been suspended... still hoping that - maybe - it's not true...!

A story about one Very Big Boss

This is the story about an old dying parrot, fake mandarin tree and some interesting ways of doing business in Tbilisi (luckily or not, you won't see it every day!).

One Saturday morning we were going to buy a lock for our door - flat renovations takes quite some time, and every weekend is so precious! After searching online a bit, found a shop calles smth like "European Construction House", or similar, and went to look for it. That day there had to be big demonstrations of oposition party in the very center of the city, so we were in a hurry to finish all the buying business before it starts. Hehe, what kind of hurry....

It took a while to find this shop. The girl who answered the phone gave a deep sigh and vaguely explained where it is - no, you found the storage house, you have to walk right and find another office, where the sign says somewhat different name than expected. Well, good job hiding! After ringing at the door we have to wait a bit. The girl opens the door and invites us to come over, showing the stairs to the second floor - please go up there. We get to the second floor - two rooms with the glass doors, empty, not a living soul around. We get down to look for our girl. "Oh," - she says, - "The boss is away." Ok, we will wait, ok, we will sit down for a bit. We take a seat near the door and pass the time looking at posters on the walls and fake mandarin trees "growing" around. Posters show that the firm is standing well, doing some serious governmental projects. Apparently, selling door locks is not their primary occupation. After good twenty minutes and reminders to the girl that we are still here, there comes HE.

His head is high up, he holds the pose of a Very Important Person, gives a few directions to the girl and to another man that entered with him (maybe a security guard?). He is wearing slippers - well, of course, you should feel comfortable while doing a very important business. Without a single glance at us he climbs up the stairs in full dignity and disappears on the second floor. To our questioning looks the girl explains - it appears, we have been waiting not so much for the director, but for his assistant, who all this time has been in..... the kitchen (?????) and will come in a minute. Open smiles on our faces, but still waiting, at least from curiosity it is worth to see what will come next.

Assistant comes in with full elegance and invites us upstairs. We are led through the glass-door office and double door with double security - to the room of the very Boss.... Oh boy, it is a huge apartment, with a long meeting table, closets, books, family photos, lots of things on the shelves, chairs and everywhere - sure, business is a serious thing. We have a chance to look around while walking good 15 meters across the room towards HIM. The signs of status catch the eye: various souvenirs, attributes, and especially a plate on the table that says - "Ostorozhno, shef ne v duxe". We are asked what could interest us? We want a door lock, we say. Aham, aham, he listens to us with due seriousness and confirms, yes, we have door locks. Gives some directions to his assistant and she takes us away with her - through the double security door, to another room. Asks to wait a bit again. Next to the sofa there is a parrot cage with one bird inside - great, watching it will help pass the time! Oh no, wrong again... After a second glance it appears that the poor parrot has lost some feathers and looks pretty sick - head down, just holding to its perch in the cage and seems like it is just, just about to fall.... Next to the bird cage the security guard turned on his computer and started watching the news and playing cards at the same time - apparently, a usual activity that is not hidden from clients or anyone. Now we are openly giggling and waiting, what will come next.

The assistant returns with two locks and some sort of catalog. Shows one, another - good, Finnish locks, price is also quite alright, seems like we got lucky after all! And then she goes: "Wait please, I need to show it to the Boss first." Oh boy! Hasn't he seen it before??? She disappears behind the double door and we remain waiting. It appeared, the boss really needs to control everything - she has brought completely wrong locks! We get a catalog this time, with a quite limited choice again: "So we have this one, and that one, the price will be almost double compared with the first ones. If you want to buy, you should call us later and we will book it at our storage place."


We do not get to see the Boss again, thank them for the highlight of the day and rush out of that place. In another shop it took fifteen minutes to get everything we wanted. Interesting, that this time everyone wore shoes, and Boss's desk/fake mandarins/dying parrots were nowhere to be seen...

"Ostorozhno, shef ne v duxe"

Tai pasakojimas apie susenusią papūgą ir netikrų mandarinų giraitę, bei kaip (kartais) vyksta biznis Tbilisyje.

Tą rytą išsiruošėme pirkti spynos durims - remontai įsibėgėja, prisireikia įvairiausių smulkmenų, o to laiko taip mažai, kad savaitgalius būtina išnaudoti. Panaršę interenete radome parduotuvę "Europian konstrakšion hous", ar kažkaip panašiai ir išvažiavom jos ieškoti. Šeštadienį Tbilisio centre turėjo būti didelis opozicijos mitingas, tad skubėjom apsisukti anksčiau. Cha, ir kur tu nuskubėsi....

Ilgą laiką parduotuvės neradome. Telefonu atsiliepusi mergaitė giliai atsiduso ir paaiškino, ne, jums reikia paėjėti dar keliasdešimt metrų ir rasite visai kitokią iškabą nei parduotuvės pavadinimas. Na, pasislėpta neblogai. Paskambinus į duris tenka palūkėti. Mergaitė atidaro ir pakviečia mus vidun, parodo laiptus į antrą aukštą - ten jums reikia eiti. Užlipame - ten du kabinetai stiklinėmis durimis, tuščia, nei gyvos dvasios. Lipam žemyn vėl mergaitės ieškoti. "Ak," - sako, - "Taigi išėjęs šefas". Na taip, palauksime, prisėsime. Sėdiniuojam apžiūrinėjam netikrus mandarinus, "augančius" ant palangės. Plakatai ant sienų - atrodo, kad firma įsitaisius neblogai, rimtais valstybiniais projektais užsiima.Matyt, spynas pardavinėti jiems tikrai ne pagrindinis užsiėmimas. Po gerų dvidešimt minučių ir porą kartų paklausus, ar jau greitai, ateina JIS.

Galva aukštai pakelta, itin svarbaus žmogaus laikysena, pirštu pamoja mergaitei, iš paskos seka dar vienas darbuotojas (apsauginis?), šlepetėmis apsiavęs - nagi reikia jaustis patogiai verslą darant. Į mus net nežvilgtelėjęs oriai užlipa laiptais ir pradingsta. Mums klausiamai gūžčiojant pečiais, gaunam paaiškinimą - pasirodo, laukėme ne tiek direktoriaus, kiek jo padėjėjos, kuri visą šį laiką buvo.... virtuvėje (?????) ir tuoj tuoj ateis. Jau šypsomės nebesislėpdami, bet laukiam, vien iš smalsumo verta pamatyt, kuo visa tai baigsis.

Netrukus įplaukia padėjėja ir pakviečia mus į viršų. Pro kabinetą stiklinėmis durimis ir dar dvigubas duris su dviguba saugumo sistema mus įveda paties Šefo kambarį..... O ten - didžiulė patalpa, dideliausias stalas, spintos, nuotraukos, knygos, viskas užversta daiktais ir popieriais - žinia gi, rimtas verslas vyksta. Kol mes artinamės prie JO, spėjame šiek tiek apžiūrėti. Krenta į akis statuso ženklai: visokie suverynai, atributai, ant stalo puikuojas užrašas "Ostorozhno, shef ne v duxe". Klausia mūsų, tai kuo galime padėti? Sakom, norime spynos. Aha, aha, rimtai išklauso, sako, na taip, turime mes spynų. Pasako keletą žodžių padėjėjai ir ji mus išsiveda - per dvigubos apsaugos duris, į kitą kabinetą. Paprašo vėl palaukti. Šalia sofos pastatytas papūgos narvelis, žiūrim - vienas paukštis tupi viduj! Atidžiau pasižiūrėjus pasirodo - ne visai paukštis, o tai, kas iš jo liko.... galva nukabinta, plunksnos išsišėrusios, linguoja pirmyn atgal ant laktelės.... taip net gaila pasidarė - nukris dabar, ar nenukris. Apsauginis prisėda prie savo stalo tuo metu ir įsijungia žinias kompiuteryje bei kortas - matyt, įprastas užsiėmimas, kurio nėra ko ir slėpti. Nesislėpdami prunkščiam ir laukiam, kas bus toliau.

Sugrįžta padėjėja su dviem spynom ir katalogu. Parodo vieną, kitą - geros, suomiškos, kaina nebloga, apsidžiaugiam jau tokia sėkme netikėta. O ji, "Tuoj, palaukit, turiu parodyti Šefui pirmiau." Nieko sau! Ten turbūt be šefo niekas nevyksta. Ji dingsta už dvigubų durų, mes jau tik linksim ir laukiam, kas čia bus. Pasirodo, šefas tikrina viską ne be reikalo - padėjėja atnešė visai ne tas spynas. Atverčia mums katalogą, sako, "va tokią turim ir tokią, kaina tik bus dvigubai didesnė nei pirmųjų, jei norite jas nusipirkti, paskambinkite, patikrinsim, ar yra sandėly ir užsakysim."

Pas Šefą antrą kartą jau nebeinam, padėkojam jiems už dienos įspūdžius ir neriam kuo greičiau. Kitoje parduotuvėje spyną nusipirkome per dešimt minučių. Įdomu, jog ten visi avėjo batus, o Šefo stalo niekur nebuvo matyti...

Apie mandagumą

Vieną dieną man teko važiuoti mikriuku stovint, su didžiuliu sunkiu krepšiu ant peties - prireikė lygiai 20 sekundžių, kad šalia stovinti moteris pasisiūlytų palaikyti mano krepšį - juk tikrai nesunku, ir jokia čia ne problema ir ne trukdymas, ir nagi, juk man patogiau bus stovėti. Tą dieną mikriukais ir autobusais važiavau dar keletą kartų, ir kiekvieną kartą sulaukdavau lygiai tokio paties dėmesio - o mano krepšys perėjo per daugybę rankų. 
Tai privertė susimąstyti: daug kartų skųsdavausi, kokie gruzinai nemandagūs - ne tik kad nenusišypsos tau gatvėj ar parduotuvėj (pardavėjos ar padavėjos dažniau elgias taip, tarsi joms trukdai); stovint eilėje žmonės dažnai stumdosi ir užlindinėja; vairuotojai nuolat užslaudę garso signalą ir šūkauja vieni ant kitų (va kur aš išmokau gruziniškų keiksmažodžių:) ir niekad nepraleis tavęs per perėją. Bet nenoriu daugiau skųstis - esmė tame, jog mandagiais išauklėti užsieniečiai dažnai jaučiasi ganėtinai nejaukiai ir įsitempę gatvėje. Norint kažko pasiekti, tenka pakovoti už save - ir nėra laiko toms kovoms susikaupti, susidūrimai ir susirėmimai vyksta kasdien ir visur, daugybėje situacijų. Kartais tenka pabūt grubesniems, pakelti toną ar pasakyti aštriau nei norėtųsi. Dažnai tai nėra labai paprasta.
Tačiau Gruzijoje yra dalykų, kurie visa tai atperka - tai nepaprastas žmonių nuoširdumas ir paslaugumas, kai prisireikia pagalbos. Ir tai nebūtinai turi būti kažkokia didelė nelaimė: jei ieškai kelio, informacijos, tenka nešti ką sunkaus ar kito smulkesnio pagelbėjimo prisireikia, visuomet atsiras neabejingas žmogus netoliese. Gruzinai dažnai prašo ir siūlo pagalbą - kartais atrodo, kad Vakaruose tai nėra taip jau labai įprasta. Būti nepriklausomais ir savarankiškais mums dažnai būna kur kas svarbiau.

Vis dar manau, kad mandagumas labai reikalingas - tokia aplinka suteikia saugumo ir nuima įtampą kasdienybėje. Tačiau atidumas artimui - dar svarbesnis, nepamainomas ir būtinas. Ir tikras. 

Jei reikėtų pristatyti Gruziją ir gruzinus, turbūt apie tai kalbėčiau visų pirmiausai.

Polite or Helpful

The other day I was riding a marshrutka, standing with a heavy bag on my shoulder - it took exactly 20 seconds for a woman sitting nearby to suggest that she could hold it for me, and no no, this is really not a problem, and cmon, it will be easier for me. I took different buses and marshrutkas several times that day, and the same story repeated each time.
It got me thinking: so many times I was complaining that Georgians lack politeness - not that nobody smiles on the street, but people can push you, cut line right in front of you; drivers always beep their horns and shout on each other (and swear too! oh gosh, that's where I'm learning all the swearing words in Georgian....). And they never let the pedestrian cross the street at the zebra place - don't even try that. But I don't want to continue complaining - the point is, being a polite foreigner, one can get really frustrated and stressed out on the street. You have to struggle and fight for yourself, every single day and in many situations. And you also have to get rude at times. Which is hard.
But one thing that outweighs all of this is the extreme warmth and helpfulness of the people when you are in trouble. Not even very serious trouble: if you need to find your way, or to get some information, or you're carrying something heavy, and need an extra hand - there will always be someone near and ready to assist. People give help and ask for it a lot - something that is quite forgotten in some Western countries, where it's just so important to be independent.
I still think that being polite is necessary, and that it helps to make everybody's life just less intense and more pleasant. But being helpful is something so much more real.
If I even had to present Georgia and Georgian people, I would surely put it as a point #1.

Who rules the rules

Recently I've been thinking about freedom, and where it actually comes from. I was reading a travel blog of my friends, who are trotting around the world - what an ultimate sense of freedom it must be! Living in such simplicity, surrounded by nature, people and silence, and having the rules that make sense. 

Cause there are so many rules that don't really make sense. We limit ourselves - mostly, to feel safer and more comfortable, and to not need to try what's new and unexpected. That's one thing the world could learn from Georgia - braveness to give it a try. If there is a space, it means it's possible to pass through it; if there is a chair, it means it's possible to sit on it. There is no questioning, "oh, is it allowed?" Of course, it is allowed. And if not, you'll find out in due time - but till then maybe you will have achieved what you wanted already. I guess, it's a survival skill, quite lost in richer countries. 

We are so careful in Lithuania. Sometimes it makes sense, of course (!!!), but other times just stops you from improvising. And getting you where you didn't expect to go, but where you'd enjoy yourself the most. 

Kavos galia

Ar kada pastebėjote, kad kur nors skubant sugalvojus užšokti į parduotuvę "labai greitai kažko", kas nors būtinai bus ne taip.

Ryte jau beveik vėlavau į darbą, bet vis tik nusprendžiau pirmiausia pasipildyti kavos atsargas mažytėje parduotuvėlėje šalimais. Kavos puodelis visuomet padaro rytą darbe malonesnį, o kavos kvapas iškart gerai nuteikia visai dienai...jau taip ir įsivaizdavau netrukus garuosiantį puodelį. Parduotuvė buvo beveik tuščia, greitai pagriebiau viską, ko reikėjo ir atėjau prie kasų.......... Tolimesnis dialogas atkartotas beveik identiškai, apytiksliai verčiant iš gruzinų kalvos:

-Mari, gal atidarom kitą kasą. 

-Gerai, aš tik centus šitoje supakuosiu.

(pauzė, aš ir darbininkas su alaus buteliu ir cigaretėmis kantrai laukiame)

(Mari kraustosi į kitą kasą, jos kolegė tvarkosi pirmojoje)

(po kurio laiko patys susiprantame, kad ir mums reikėtų pereiti prie kitos kasos, ši dar neatsidaro)

(anoje kasoje Mari vis dar išsipakuoja visus centus ir monetas)

-Na gerai, galite prieiti. O ne, popieriaus čekiams spausdinti nėra... Gal pereikit prie pirmosios kasos.

(greitai ir tyliai su darbininku judame tarp kasų, už mūsų atsiranda daugiau laukiančių žmonių)

-Atsiprašau, bet alus tai daugiau kainuoja, jums dar teks larį pridėti (ar kiek ten)

-O, tikrai? Nu kaip čia taip... tai gla cigarečių neskaičiuokit tuomet...

-Hmmm.... nu gerai, pažiūrėkim....

(klik klik klik....klik klik klaviatūra)

(pauzė)

-Mari.

(pauzė)

-Ką?

(pauzė)

(pauzė)

(pauzė)

-Koks alaus stiklinių kodas?

Kantrybė ir kavos galia atsilaikys prieš bet kokias klūtis. 

....O jeigu... :)

Pasiskolinta iš www.cartoonstock.com/

Coffee power

Have you noticed that whenever you are in a hurry and decide to just "run real fast" to the nearest shop on the way, something must go wrong.
In the morning I was nearly late but needed to refill my coffee supplies. Morning in the office always goes more smoothly with a cup of coffee, and I was already imagining a full cup just 5 min from that moment. The shop was almost empty, I quickly took all I wanted.............and then I got to the cashier's. Following conversation is almost identical, roughly translated from Georgian:
-Mari, let's open another cashier.
-OK, let me count all the coins from this one.
(pause, me and a construction worker in front with a bottle of beer waiting)
(while Mari is moving to another cashier, her colleague at this one is tidying up)
(we understood that we should also probably move to another cashier)
(Mari there is still unpacking coins)
-OK, please come closer. Oh no, there is no paper in the printer... Please return to the first cashier.
(quickly and quietly me and the construction worker move in between the cashiers)
-Sir, you got the price wrong. Please add one more lari (or how much it was)
-Oh, really? Then please, cancel the cigarettes.
-Hmmm...ok, lets see.....
(click click click....click click)
(pause)
-Mari.
(pause)
-What?
(pause)
(pause)
(pause)
-What is the code for the beer glasses?


Patience and strong wish of morning coffee can prevail against anything.

...If only... :)

Borrowed from  http://www.cartoonstock.com/

Off Shopping

After a week-long trip home I suddenly realized how much I have adapted here in Georgia. It took two years, and of course, there are still things that surprise me - but overall, everything seems somewhat "normal", including relaxed lifestyle, occasional power/water breakdowns, and even the August heat (boy it's melting everything!).
I just realize things more consciously now. For example, shopping this weekend taught me a lesson that with patience you can win anything. And that the sellers hold their personal respect higher than possibility to sell and earn (quite a lot of) money. That's how it works in some shops.
If you enter and see a lot of people, prepare yourself. We were pro-active, checked all the goods in the shop ourselves, even took some samples to carry around (till this day I don't know if they were left on the table for this purpose...) and tried to make the choice. During the process we chose one seller and from time to time caught her by the hand to ask some question. In the end, caught the same seller and told that we are ready and to give us some attention. Abra kadabra - it worked! And all those polite customers who would like to get personal service will have to come another time...and maybe to some other place :)

Another point about shopping in Georgia. Often people who have been travelling in Turkey or in Eastern Asia are expecting to bargain hard and get things so cheaply. After all, Georgia is considered a developing country! Oh well, I have only one thing to tell here: it's just completely wrong. Georgia is not that cheap at all; and while bargaining one can get down 20% off the price....max. And if you offer too low price, the seller might get offended and won't want to talk to you anymore.

The best way to get what you want is communication - friendly informal chat will open many doors and give lots of information, unreachable otherwise. Good luck shopping!

We're going for a picnic!

Georgia is not rich in lakes - that was unfortunate comparison with Lithuania, where half an hour by car is max time needed - and you already dive into a cool fresh water on a hot summer day.

Yet - yet! - nostalgia does not last long, and then you look around for local treasures. Last weekend I went for a picnic outside the city. Just half an hour drive, and we were among trees and fields, breathing in with full lungs the fresh air. It appears, in the outskirts of Tbilisi there are many open - air fireplaces, ready and waiting for picnic'ers (I'm pretty sure it's not a real word. But bear with me) to come and enjoy. In the place where I was, we even found barbeque sticks tied in a tree, ready for anyone to use. That's what I call barbeque culture!

Tables for picnics are arranged everywhere - e.g. near ancient fortresses and towers

Fun fact about Georgia is that if you find a secluded place and you think you're alone, it doesn't mean it will last for long. If someone finds it and likes it as well, they won't mind that you're just a few meters away, and the aroma of their mtsvadi will mix in the air with yours very soon. The more, the merrier - that is definitely a valid motto here!

Covered from the road by trees - it was a perfect place for improvised barbeque

This fortress is near Tbilisi; it takes some time and effort to hike up there....but if you have a powerful jeep, you can simply get up there with all picnic equipment - that's what we saw when we finally got there, a small piglet roasting on fire and supra at its peak!

One of the most impressive sausages I have ever seen - all in one! Found while shopping for a picnic, more than a year ago.

How To Be An Alien. And Not To Loose Head.

I found one very smart text, that is worth sharing. Written by George Mikes [1912-1987] a while ago, published  by Wingate, London / NY in 1946, and sill great source of learning. Presenting to you, ladies and gentlemen: "A Handbook for Beginners and More Advanced Pupils".

"It was like this. Some years ago I spent a lot of time with a young lady who was very proud and conscious of being English. Once she asked me - to my great surprise - whether I would marry her. "No," I replied, "I will not. My mother would never agree to my marrying a foreigner." She looked at me a little surprised and irritated, and retorted: "I, a foreigner? What a silly thing to say. I am English. You are the foreigner. And your mother, too." I did not give in. "In Budapest, too?" I asked her. "Everywhere," she declared with determination. "Truth does not depend on geography. What is true in England is also true in Hungary and in North Borneo and Venezuela and everywhere."

I saw that this theory was as irrefutable as it was simple. I was startled and upset. Mainly because of my mother whom I loved and respected. Now, I suddenly learned what she really was.

It is a shame and bad taste to be an alien, and it is no use pretending otherwise. There is no way out of it. A criminal may improve and become a decent member of society. A foreigner cannot improve. Once a foreigner, always a foreigner. There is no way out for him. He may become British; he can never become English.

So it is better to reconcile yourself to the sorrowful reality. There are some noble English people who might forgive you. There are some magnanimous should who realise that it is not your fault, only your misfortune. They will treat you with condescension, understanding and sympathy. They will invite you into their homes. Just as they keep lap-dogs and other pets, they are quite prepared to keep a few foreigners."

To what extent is this true? So many my fellow nationals, and myself, have chosen to become alien somewhere, for all kinds of reasons. It is very exciting - and emotional - in the beginning; frustrating after some time passes and it becomes no longer a holiday; and getting more "normal" after a while. Local people are indeed very welcoming, although some have their own understanding how to help you integrate. (Oh, and I was doing same at home, too!!). When in reality all that foreigner needs is to be treated like everyone else. But then again - the language barrier, all the cultural misunderstandings.... Complications, complications!..

There are certain rules, however, following which one can blend in and make oneself as "acceptable and civilised as one possibly can". And that is probably the best way of integration. 

There is only one danger of overstretching. Just as George Mikes said: "Study these rules, and imitate the English. There can be only one result: if you don't succeed in imitating them you become ridiculous; if you do, you become even more ridiculous." True story.

From "wooden ship" to sensitivity

Never before I really thought what it means to be sensitive towards different ethnicities. Not only being respectful, but also communicating it, in the right way. That the famous cake in Lithuania "Negriukas" can sound like a deadly insult to somebody. That people can leave the room only because somebody said the "N" word out loud, in English. Or that there is a difference between "people of color" and "colored people".

So many misunderstandings can come just from the fact that we don't know about each other, what is sensitive in other cultures and what is actually not. I remember a story how in one hotel in Vilnius a Latino guest was asked to show some additional documents, only because he was served by a new receptionist who followed the rules with more scrutiny. He took it personally and it wasn't easy for personnel to calm him down! You never know where you can get an intercultural lesson.

Here in Georgia I heard many stories that make one smile. Like, people expressing their affection to foreigners of other ethnicity in the most inappropriate language - but so honestly and warmly, that their intentions couldn't be mistaken. Or when someone would point at differently looking people on the street and shout names at them - this is not funny, but makes one raise both eyebrows and think, why would anybody do that?. When even wearing red sneakers can be considered "Weird....", it is hard to stand out of the crowd. But still worth it. Because it is really interesting to watch how diversity transforms from an "old old wooden ship" into something more real. What will it bring here? I wonder...

Multilingual everyday

If someone told me that one day I will have to speak three languages at once, wondering in the fourth how it's possible - I would have smiled at his/hers imagination. And yet - that is my everyday life now. At home we speak English and Georgian, supported with Russian where nothing else can help. Although the body-language also often comes handy. I try to blend in with my little Georgian, using it in shops, taxis, post offices - even struggling on the phone sometimes. And in my gym my trainer only speaks Russian, so here it goes - all the Soviet cartoon vocabulary suddenly became useful!
It is funny to think that in some places in the very heart of Tbilisi you wouldn't be able to communicate in official language. And even more - nobody seems to care about it! I actually like it.
 
Maybe I should work on spreading some Lithuanian too. If only we used more gestures to follow it.

Mano kaimynai

Turiu puikius kaimynus. Negaliu skųstis - nebent vėlai po vidurnakčio, bet tai retai nutinka. Mano kaimynas groja gitara, ir dažnai turi muzikuojančių svečių. Štai dabar jaučiu, kaip dreba lentynos stiklai į ritmą ir bandau atspėti, kokiais instrumentais šiandien grojama. Solo gitara; bosinė gitara; mikrofonas irgi matyt įjungtas, nes per tris aukštus vokalas taip aiškiai nesigirdėtų. Kartais dar girdžiu būgnus - ar bent taip atrodo. Gerą skonį turi mano kaimynas - ir gerą balsą. Neveltui kunigas netolimoj bažnytėlėj. Su ilga barzda ir dar ilgesniu juodu rūbu. Išjungiu muziką, TV, ir grįžtu toliau klausytis.

Winter challenges in Tbilisi. Shower.

You would think that the worst winter can bring is cold and darkness. Yet if you can escape from it - say, to relaxing hot bath, everything becomes much easier. In Georgia, luckily, there is plenty of sun even in the winter; coldness is mild; and snow/rain - pretty rare as well. However. Recently one of my biggest challenges every morning/evening has become... taking shower. Fellow 'Tbilisians' will know what I mean: during "rush hours" water can be simply too cold even on maximum, it can be turning off all the time; water temperature changing up and down is not unusual either. As I was explained, this is because water is heated with gas, and in winter everyone is using much more gas - to heat the rooms, to cook, etc. Looking on the bright side, contrast shower is considered a healthy thing - and really I haven't been ill this year!
Still, it is also stressful when hot water disappears just after you have got all soapy (been there.....). So we have worked some strategies how to avoid it and enjoy water procedures without big interruptions. Effective 75%.

• To start with, turn on the water and leave it for a while. Temperature will get steady and you will know if it is worth to get under water - or to wait for the better times.
• Ask for help. If someone will be nearby to check if the gas works properly, in case it turns off you at least won't need to get out of the bathroom to turn it on again.
• At least in our home water temperature can be regulated both by the tap, and at the gas heater - one can put the flames higher or lower. Therefore, everyone regulates it only at the gas heater and DOES NOT TOUCH the tap. Keep it on maximum and hope for the best. 
• The taps in the bathroom and in the kitchen are somehow connected. Nobody should open water tap in the kitchen while you're showering - it will reduce pressure in the bathroom, and temperature might drop as well. 
• Consider taking shower when people do not use much gas - early in the morning or late at night (after 11pm). It's just safer.
• And finally, our latest discovery - if you leave the window in the kitchen (where the gas heater is) open, there is less chance that gas will turn off.

Sounds ridiculous? oh well...some time ago I wouldn't have thought I would ever need such strategies. But if you are there...you just live and learn, and be creative.

First snowboarding experience/Pirmąkart ant snieglentės

"Do not try to slide into a tree or anything like that... it just won't work". <...> "If you want to have sore muscles or look like a moron - sure, go ahead, use your arms for turning." Such and more "youtube" advice followed me this weekend, on my first snowboarding trip. Here in Georgia winter sports are very popular (and easy to practice). You just get into car/marshrutka/taxi/plane - depending on your social status, wallet depth, destination and will for comfort. Oh sorry - will for comfort is quite a commonality here in Georgia, so just consider your abilities and get ready.

"Nebandykit stabdyti čiuoždami į medį ar dar ką nors... tokie metodai neveikia" <...>; "Jei norit skaudančių raumenų ir atrodyt kaip avinai - pirmyn, naudokitės rankomis posūkiuose". Tokie ir panašūs "youtube" pamokų patarimai mane išlydėjo į pirmąjį nuotykį su snieglente šį savaitgalį. Čia Gruzijoje žiemos sportu užsiimėti labai populiaru - ir lengva. Tereikia įšokti į mašiną/mikriuką/taksi/lėktuvą - priklausomai nuo jųsų statuso, piniginės gylio, vietos kur važiuojate ir komforto troškimo. Nors tiesa - komforto čia Gruzijoje nori visi, tad geriau tiesiog pasverti galimybes ir pasiruošti įdomiam savaitgaliui. 

There are 4 winter resorts: Gudauri (up to 3 hours from Tbilisi; pretty steep hills; a bit expensive,but it's not necessary to stay overnight), Mestia (new and very far away, in the West-North mountains; president goes there), Bakuriani (kind of family place, beginner-friendly, but could work for more advanced skiers/snowboarders too. 4-5 hour drive, so you'll definitely need to stay there overnight) and - Betania.

Gruzijoje yra keturi žiemos kurortai: Gudauris (apie 3 val kelio nuo Tbilisio; gana statūs šlaitai; šiek tiek brangėlesnis, bet norint sutaupyti nebūtina apsistoti ten pernakt), Mestija (naujas kurortas toli šalies šiaurės-vakaruose; čia ir gali prireikti lėktuvo - prezidentas ten dažnai keliauja, kiek rodo TV), Bakuriani (šeimyniškas kurortas, tinkantis ir pradedantiesiems, ir labiau patyrusiems slidininkams/snieglentininkams. Apie 4-5val kelio nuo Tbilisio, tad greičiausiai teks apsistoti čia bent vienai nakčiai), ir galiausiai - Betanija.

The last one is where I went. It is practically on the outskirts of Tbilisi, very comfortable for one day trip. The place is usually full of families with kids, and beginning skiers and snowboarders (the so called "chainiks", as I was explained). Which is great, cause when you fall, you know you're not the only one.

Į paskutinįjį aš ir keliavau savęs išbandyti. Betanija yra praktiškai Tbilisio užmiestyje, tad labai patogu ten nuvažiuoti kad ir popietei praleisti. Kaip supratau, dažniausiai čia pilna šeimų su vaikais, taip pat pradedančiųjų slidininkų ir snieglentininkų (vadinamų "čainikais", kaip man buvo paaiškinta:). Ir tai tikrai puiku, nes ritantis nuo tos kalvos žemyn niekas nesijaučia vienišas - aplinkui daug tokių, bandančių išmokti išlaikyti pusiausvyrą ant sniego. 

We rented our snowboards in the city - and that was very smart, cause we didn't need to queue for them at the place. And also we could get it cheaper for a better choice: 20 GEL per day for one snowboard + special boots, quite good deal.

Savo snieglentes nuomavomės mieste - ir labai gerai padarėme, nes atvažiavus nereikėjo stovėti ilgėliausių eilių prie nuomos punkto (kur neaišku kas bebuvo likę). O išvakarėse pavyko visai neblogai susitarti: dvidešimt larių (apie trisdešimt litų) dienai už snieglentę ir specialius batus. Su pritvirtinimais ir palinkėjimais. 
 
I was pretty excited to get on the board - but fun thing was, our taxi drivers were just as excited for us! When one of them sent radio-greetings on the second day morning, I started thinking that it was totally worth it. It seems, skiing is quite usual in Georgia, and snowboarding arouses much more emotions.

Važiuodama nekantravau pirmą kartą užlipti ant snieglentės - bet įdomiausia, ir gan netikėta, kad mūsų taksi vairuotojai džiūgavo ne ką mažiau:) Kai antros dienos rytą gavome linkėjimų per taksi radiją nuo vakarykščio vairuotojo, pagalvojau, kad visai verta buvo. Panašu,kad slidinėjimas Gruzijoj įprastas ir nieko nenustebins, bet snieglentės sukelia kur kas daugiau emocijų. 

And for the end - how it all looks like. Oh well.... I guess in the beginning it goes pretty much like this:
Ir galiausiai - kaip visa tai atrodė iš tiesų. Hmmm..... pradžioje turbūt ėjosi maždaug šitaip:

No, I didn't try to jump. And I didn't fall THAT painfully. But I did fall... a lot...And it all felt like "oh my, oh my, Im going down the hill, and it's all so fast, NOW WHAT SHOULD I DOOOOO, STOOOOP!!!!" :)

Ne, aš šokinėti per tramplinus nebandžiau. Ir nekritau TAIP skausmingai. Bet tiesa, teko kristi.... ir ganėtinai nemažai...ir jausmas tai buvo maždaug "o varge, o varge, leidžiuosi žemyn, o koks greitis, O KĄ DABAR DARYYYYT??? KAIP SUSTOOOOOOOT???" :)

But luckily, the second day was much better from the start. I guess the whole body somehow adapts to the snowboard and starts to feel it - so hopefully, little by little advancing, snowboarding will become pure enjoyment.

Bet visa laimė, antra diena prasidėjo žymiai ramiau ir užtikrinčiau - tikriausiai kūnas tiesiog prisitaikė prie snieglentės, pasidarė lengiau jausti ir kontroliuoti savo judesius, išlaikyti pusiausvyrą - tad tikiuosi, pamažu tobulėjant snieglentė taps gyvenimo būdo dalis, kuria bus galima tiesiog mėgautis. 

More on the Music and the Barriers

I have noticed that people have different attitudes on chewing gum - when is it polite/nice/appropriate to have something in your mouth in public? Well, it depends. But there is an absolute no to it - when you are on the stage. I was thinking of it during Dato Evgenidze's concert, where one young boy was blowing (a trumpet? cannot remember for sure....) and chewing gum at the same time. He was good. But so out of the context with those jaws moving. At those moments he was not sincere, was not all in the music - some part of him was distracted from it.

 ...what are you 
hiding from?...








 
People like making barriers. Having a safe space between themselves and others. It is pretty frightful to endorse the world and be to the fullest - but if you try once to see others as simply human beings, who maybe came to listen to your music; or to hear what you have to say; or just happened to be around, you can make some big discoveries. The biggest one - that everything is much more simple than it looks...

Pic borrowed, from http://www.simonedecker.com/WorksChewinginVenice10.html

Dato Evgenidze - living in the music

There are such musicians who are clearly in their shoes. They enjoy what they are doing - and let you enjoy it too. A little while ago I attended a real party on the stage - Dato Evgenidze's anniversary of 45 years on the stage. It seemed he knows that it's his evening, and he was taking it all - the fun, the attention, the sound, and the joy of improvisation. And for the listeners it was over one hour of most sincere musical performance: how often can you see a piano player who uses it all - the keys, the strings, the inside, the outside....? I left wanting more, and thinking that music can be everything and come from everywhere - if you only thirst for it.

In the midst of Holiday Season

Holiday season in Georgia is a serious business. First - it's long. If you're a Catholic, it starts on December 24th and continues till..... well, it still hasn't finished, and for a week or two everyone will be still celebrating. So you have to be strong, have a good stomach - or some "Mezym Forte" and mineral water at hand...And don't think that I am joking - food is another serious thing about holidays. Special dishes for New Year, two three layers on the tables, then turn for a roasted gochi (piglet) on Christmas, Jan 7th, and lots of guests/visiting each other in between of those days - so the table is always laid and ready for someone to sit! Even though I did have 12 dishes on Christmas Eve, as we are used in Lithuania, it was nothing comparing to New Year - and I have no idea what is awaiting on Christmas!.. Fiesta to all gourmands, which makes me understand the meaning of fasting.....

There are a couple of other things that I noticed here and that got me intrigued. For example, most Georgians have the fake Christmas trees at home, not the real ones. At first it looked strange, but on the other hand... someone has to grow those specially, in order that there would be enough and people wouldn't cut the precious forests. So to save the trees, there is a point in that. Actually, you can get the real Christmas trees too - but only few days before New Year. And there is another option - to buy a stick covered with live branches; they are tied in a way to look like a real Christmas tree. Original?

Georgians also have their own Christmas tree, called chichilaki (ჩიჩილაკი). It is made from straight hazelnut branches, shaved into a form of a curly little tree. Here is a good BBC piece on it. I find it kind of lovely - and it's certainly the area, where Georgians are environment friendly. Which means - it can work.